A serger is also known as an overlocker, can be good for sewing fur.

From: Robert King
I've been asked for info on how to choose a sewing machine - since I'm relatively new, I asked a friend, BJ Stahlen, (who has sewn fake fur) and she told me this:

Here is what you need:

1. A machine that will do a good zigzag stitch. 2. A Ballpoint needle (not leather, not universal) 3. An option known as a “Walking Foot” or an “Even Feed Foot” which adds a second set of feed dogs so that feed dogs pull on both the top and bottom of the material.

This is very useful if you are sewing together two pieces by the following technique (direct abutment with no seam allowance).

A. put one piece on the other with the pile (fur) in. Align perfectly. B. Sew a wide zigzag stitch such that 1/2 of the seam is falling off the edge (ie. no seam allowance) C. Open the seam and pick the pile out of the stitches - should be darn near invisible if you do it right.

4. Be sure the tension on the machine will go low enough 5. There is no substitute for bringing in some scraps and doing some test seams on the prospective machine. 6. Check Consumer Reports

From: TeddyRuxpin

Here is what you need:

1. A machine that will do a good zigzag stitch.

Yes! Check in particular that the machine always picks up the back thread on each stitch. That is - you see a perfect zig-zag front AND back.

2. A Ballpoint needle (not leather, not universal)

Fake fur backing is usually like double-knit, so this can help. Backing that is plastic reinforced is worse to deal with.

Its also worth asking (and trying!) if it will sew with heavier thread, like quilting, tapestry or carpet top and bottom. Heavier thread is worth using on furry garment seams.

3. An option known as a “Walking Foot” or an “Even Feed Foot” which
adds a second set of feed dogs so that feed dogs pull on both the top
and bottom of the material.

One of these does help. It also helps a lot to thoroughly pin the fur pieces together first. Even better is hand tacking them in place first. If you do this well, you can get away with a standard foot.

This is very useful if you are sewing together two pieces by the
following technique (direct abutment with no seam allowance - Furrier's seam).

A. put one piece on the other with the pile (fur) in. Align perfectly.
B. Sew a wide zigzag stitch such that 1/2 of the seam is falling
off the edge (ie. no seam allowance)

I never tried this - I would say 'perfectly aligning' fur edges is quite difficult to maintain. But I will try it out. I usually use a straight stitch at the most coarse setting with a large allowance - 1/2“+ (1.27+ cm). Then trim back the allowance to 1/4” (0.635 cm) from stitches.

C. Open the seam and pick the pile out of the stitches - should be
darn near invisible if you do it right.

You do have to 'pick out' your seams after machine sewing. When hand sewing you can stroke the pile into the seam as you go, which much reduces the need to pick out.

4. Be sure the tension on the machine will go low enough

Check that the point at which the top and bottom threads wrap around each other is 'inside' the fabric. I find you always seem to need a very low tension.

5. There is no substitute for bringing in some scraps and doing some
test seams on the prospective machine.

Very true!!!

6. Check Consumer Reports

Do they ever test them sewing four layers of 1“ (2.5 cm) fake fur?

The BIGGEST problem with domestic sewing machines is how much fabric you can get under the foot (2.5 cm). 1/4” - 3/8“ (0.635 - 0.95 cm) is the usual - just enough for 2 layers. But when you get to 'corners' it gets very tight.

From: Teddy Ruxpin
Subject: Sewing machine maintainance.

Sewing machines suffer from oil drying up. Owners rarely oil them regularly, and the lint (fabric fluff) wicks the oil out of everywhere.

Take the covers off, scrape off all the oily lint, then put light machine oil in all the oil holes while turning the mechanisms by hand.

Dont forget underneath. And take the cover off the bobbin housing and clean that complicated part up too.

Then sew some scrap fabric with scap cotton and check that you did not overdo the oil!

boogi talked with Teddy Ruxpin about locating a used sewing machine at thrift stores and machine repair store resales.

[boogi> Something to check. Seems you gotta remove the front cover to check for the metal gears, on any machine.
[TedyRuxpn> Right, or the top.
[boogi> Thanks. I'll be looking around some more. Anything else I'll need to look for, when looking for this, and making sure it's working, besides bringing along thread and fabric pieces, and moving by hand the handwheel?
[TedyRuxpn> load with thread top and bottom, and a good needle and see if it sews. Try all the combinations of stitch length/sewing
[TedyRuxpn> If it is in a thrift store, may need oiling and adjustment to make work
[TedyRuxpn> More expensive, but reliable (guaranteed) is a machine repair store re-sale of abandoned machines
[TedyRuxpn> Might be worth talking to people who have bought used machines. I got mine new for $100, 28 years ago

[Maintainer's note: Interestingly enough, both have the same model sewing machine, a Singer Fashion Mate 257, made around the early 70s. This model has all metal gears.]