*EXCELLENT* writeup by Alopex on using sergers with fursuits! - AloSerger.pdf (4.4 megs in size)

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From: Teddy Ruxpin
Subject: FL: Tips for machine sewing

TeddyRuxpin's basic tips for machine sewing.

Note. Some modern machines are better behaved, so tips may not apply in some cases.

1. Threading the needle: Lick thumb and forefinger, pinch thread end between and pull through. This straightens the thread, stiffens it and sticks the microhairs down. Next snip off the end with sharp scissors. The resulting tip is easier to poke through the hole. For really difficult situations use beeswax instead of spit.

2. When starting a run make sure you have about 4“ of thread end hanging free. This prevents top thread snatch dethreading the needle. The way you do this is at the end of each run move the wheel backwards to raise the needle to just before top position, then lift the presser foot. This should release the thread clamp. Pull the work 4” away from the foot. Cut the threads right at the work, leaving 4“ free ends for the next run. To be tidy, go immediately to the start of the run and trim the 4” threads from there.

3. When doing finishing runs (not tacking runs) on heavy work, start 3/8“ in from the start point and run backwards slowly to the start, then forwards along the run. This locks and reinforces the start. At the end, go back slowly over the last 3/8” before release and trim, for similar reinforcement. (On tacking runs that you may want to rip open, do not double-stitch anyplace and use a very coarse stitch.)

4. Unless you have a lot of practice, pin all seams liberally before sewing. Align pieces at the ends, pin at ends. Match middle, pin. Match in between and pin… until pins are 2“ apart. If the edge lengths will not match, review your pattern!

5. To prevent 'pinched pile' on long fur, as you sew, stroke the fur pile back between the cut edges. The rounded handle end of a small seam ripper is good for this.

6. Pinning - to make it easy to remove pins while sewing, place pins at right-angles to the sew line, head next to the cut edges and on top as you sew. Then you can easily pull them as they approach the foot. Sewing over pins has a little risk - if the needle spears the pin it may break. Mostly it misses. If you miss pulling a pin it may be painful when you eventually rediscover it!

7. To aid sewing over bumpy joints and reduce skewing problems caused by extra drag, wrap around all the layers of fabric with one fold of tissue paper (offcuts from paper patterns work well). Sew through the 'sandwich', the paper surface slides through the machine better. After, rip the paper away.

From: Teddy Ruxpin in response to MoonShadow

Does any one have any recommendations for the sizes of sewing
needles, thread or anything else that I need (besides more practice
runs on the sewing machine?)

Needles - get 'double-knit' needles, they come in light, medium and heavy, which works best depends on your fur backing, but since one rarely cares about the size of the hole the needle is punching, go with the heavy.

For thread - first time use a really cheap light-weight cotton and coarse stitch (6). Do not trim the allowance. Try the garment on. If it is not right you can rip the seams apart easily and adjust.

When you have it right, over-sew it all with a good cotton/polyester thread - I used Coates Dual Duty Plus - with a finer stitch (10). If you want reliability sew all the seams twice.

Other things: Pins to hold the fabric together. I use glass head pins because they are easier to see and get hold of; Small scissors to trim off thread ends while sewing; A seam ripper - useful for undoing seams, and also as a poker to push fabric under the shoe and keep it aligned.

There are also some tricks on how to sew with a machine that are not usually in the owners manual, if you are interested in more.

Kit

A good hand sewing kit has quite a few things in here, like the well stocked tool box below. You can even mix stuff in the tool box, and not have problems in using any of these items. Even machine sewing parts can be kept in them.

- upholstery or button & carpet thread
- needles
- thimble
- seam ripper
- elastic (1/4”, 1/2“, 1”)
- velcro (sew and stick)
- small scissors
- snaps
- hooks and eyes
- colored chalk
- markers
- hem clips
- zippers
- fabric glue
- safety, straight, and T pins

From: Ostrich, in response to Maxgoof

Before you attempt to sew anything furry, make sure you use
upholstery needles. Anything less will likely break. Use a stretch
stitch (the kind that goes over the same spot three or four times),
as anything less will rip when any strain is put on it.

I've had good results with common ballpoint needles, #16 or heavier. I generally use Singer 'Yellow Band' needles, although in fairness I've gotta note that a lot of fursuiters and plush makers just hate Singer needles since they will bend readily if you're not careful with them. You've gotta be careful to let the tractor feed the cloth all by itself, and not rush it.

I generally use a tight locking straight stitch as well, since it requires less of a seam allowance. Of late, though, I've actually taken to hand-sewing, since I can have almost no allowances that way, and the seams are nearly invisible.

Congratulations on getting an older machine too, BTW - most of the modern ones simply aren't sturdy enough to sew fur.